Dart
width calculation
Here, I would like
to introduce you to dart
width calculation.
1. Let us
mark the apex
point as G.
2. Measure from
center front to the side
seam passing the
measuring tape over
the highest part
of the bust marked as points A
and B as
shown in the
diagram.
3. Measure just
below the bust
at empire line
level from center
front to side seam marked
as points C
and D as
shown in the
diagram.
4 . Measure just
above the bust
at chest level
from center front
to side seam marked as points
E
and F as
shown in the
diagram.
5. Bust root
is a circle
so to draw
the circle with
radius = GB – ½
″
for eg. If GB = 5″
radius of
the required circle
for bust base = 5″ - ½ ″
= 4.5″
6. Now, for dart
width at empire line level
let us consider the
dart width as ‘x’
so,
x = AB – CD
for eg :
AB = 10″
CD = 7.5″
So, x = 10″ -
7.5″
= 2.5″
y = AB – EF
for eg :
AB = 10″
EF =8″
So, y = 10″ - 8″
= 2″
So the
dart width at empire
line level is 2.5″
and at chest
level is 2″
10. Taking G
as the center
point draw a
circle with the
obtained radius in
step 5
11. Draw a
straight line parallel
to center front
from point G
upwards to shoulder
and
downwards to
hemline and mark
the points of
intersection of this
line with the
circle as K
and L.
12. Now with
a compass mark
the dart width with
radius at
empire line
level = ½ x on either side
and chest
level = ½ y on either side
here;
dart width
at empire line
level ; L= ½ x
= ½ (2.5″)
= 1.25″ on either side
Similarly ,
dart width at
chest level ; K = ½ y
= ½ (2″)
= 1 ″ on either
side