Inter facing part – II : Fusible and non-fusible fabrics

Inter facing part – II

Fusible and non fusible interfacings are available in woven , non woven , self fabric , stable , stretch , all bias ,knit , warp and weft insertions .

Woven interfacings : woven have similar grain like any other woven fabric with warp and weft . Woven interfacings are available in both fusible and non fusible types . It should be cut on the same grain as fashion fabric that will maintain its natural drape and look as desired. If you are using woven interfacing for knit make sure to cut the interfacing on true bias so as to ensure the natural characteristic of stretch is preserved. In case of knits interfacings are used to prevent excessive stretch and sagging.   

Self fabric : Are non fusible closely woven fabrics that can be used as interfacing if it meets the requirement of fashion garment and present the desired look. These fabrics have propensity to add bulk so should be used after due consideration.

Non – woven : Are felts where fibers are bonded together to form a fabric. Non – woven interfacing are generally fusible and have a paper like appearance with adhesive on one side. Though they have little flexibility but do not lose their shape and impart board like appearance when fused to a fashion fabric.

Stable : Like the name suggests has little or no ‘give’ in any direction  and hence maintains the composer of the fabric. Should be used where the garment weight is  to be carried by a small section like shoulder panels.

Stretch : There is stretch in cross but is stable in warp or length. These are suitable to be used in the fashion fabric where the natural stretch in to be maintained without compromising the required drape.

All-bias : This interfacing is stretchable in all directions with more stretch in weft or cross grain. Most suitable to be used in combination with knit fashion fabrics and woven with more than 10% spandex to retain the characteristic of the fabric.

Knit : Knit interfacing is soft and stretches in all directions without much constraint. Are mostly fusible interfacing suitable to be used in combination with softer fashion fabrics where you do not want to change the hand, drape and flexibility of the fabric.

Weft – insertions and warp – insertions : Is made on knit machine where one of the warp or weft yarn is inter-looped and the other yarn is inserted. The insertion of this extra yarn into the knit makes the interfacing more steady. These interfacings are softer while weft interfacing has most stretch on bias, warp has more stretch on cross grain as the warp yarn is inserted in the chevron pattern. Both come in fusible and need lower temperatures and hence are suitable for fashion fabrics that cannot be subjected to higher temperatures of ironing machines.          

 

 

Here are some of the fabrics and the most suitable interfacing and the resultant effect.

·                     When using very light weight to light weight sheer fabrics  like organza , voile , georgette , chiffon,  crepe, challis , calico , chambray , interlock knit , jersey , single knit , batiste which are commonly used in making dresses, light weight suits , active sportswear etc. you can use any of given interfacing for soft effect like batiste , sew – in sheer or regular organza, very light weight stretch or non – woven or self fabric interfacing.

              Whereas for crisp effect you should use any of the given interfacing like organdy ,   

           sew – in or fusible light weight , sheer woven or non – woven , fusible knit. 

·                     When using medium weight fabrics for fashion fabric like linen , light weight denim , poplin , flannel , satin , chino , velour , stretch terry , double knit etc. which are used for making dresses , light weight suits active sportswear and likewise you can use any of the given interfacings for softer effect like fusible or non – fusible woven , regular or stretch light weight to medium weight non – woven or fusible knit .  

Whereas you can use fusible or non – fusible light weight to medium weight canvas , can – can net , medium weight net , light weight to medium weight horse hair for crisper effect . 

·                     When using heavy weight fabrics for fashion fabric like corduroy , tweed , worsted , gabardine etc which are for making jackets , suits , coats and likewise you can use soft light weight fusible or non – fusible canvas or any medium weight fusible or non – fusible non – woven , fusible heavy weight tricot . 

            And use sew – in  or fusible medium weight woven hair canvas , horse hair ,                   fusible heavy weight non – woven for crisper effect . 

·                     When making waistbands and craft belts use fusible non – woven pre-cut strips of canvas or raffia , medium to heavy weight knit braids , fusible fleece , for the required stability and durability.