Fashion fabric - Interfacing : Fusible and sew - in

Interfacing

Interfacing has become an integral component in garment industry recently with designers , students , tailors using interfacing for every garment they design and sew. I believe it is essential to have a clear understanding of the product , purpose and fashion feature before using it.

Now , do you find this confusing ? Here I will explain interfacings that are commonly used in garment industry and the key factors .  

Interfacing is a layer of fabric either sewn or fused to provide shape, steadiness and structure to garment .for eg. It is used in plackets in buttons and buttonhole areas to avoid shape distortion and stretch, in collars and cuffs to add crispness and in facings and lapels to add stability and structure. In garmenting it is used to preserve the shape while in costuming it is used to add drama or the desired theatrics.

There are two types of interfacings used in the garmenting industry namely fusible and non – fusible or sew – in interfacing.

Fusible and non fusible

Fusible : Fusible interfacing are easy to use and convenient in handling. You just need to iron the fusible fabric on the wrong side of the fashion fabric which has heat activated adhesive to stick completely to the fabric.

Non – fusible : Sew – ins or non fusible like the name suggests are to be sewn to the fashion garment as second layer. These are less likely to change the hand and feel of the fabric but serve the purpose of adding volume , structure and opacity.Goats hair and horse hair are two very good example of sew – in interfacings used in tailoring later majorly being used in haute couture garments. Non – fusible are advised for fabrics that display residual shrinkage like cottons where a fusible interfacing can damage the look of the entire garment.

Fusible and sew – in interfacings are available in woven , non – woven , knit , warp and weft insertions (knits)

Before one starts using the interfacings it is essential to understand the key factors that guide the use of interfacing : A appropriate and functional interfacing should be:

·        In coherence to the fashion fabric in relation to fibre content , care , count , and conduct .

·        It should be or have the same ‘grain’ and ‘give’ as the fashion fabric with which it is being used. When applied it should be in sync with the fashion fabric and when fusible interfacing is used care should be taken that there are no bubbles , wrinkles , folds or creases .

·        Harmonize closely with the fashion fabric in colour ; dark with dark and light with light . It should not alter the colour of the fashion fabric and if an interfacing of suitable weight cannot be procured one should go for lighter weight than heavier.

·        Provide apposite support needed to improve or preserve the shape of the silhouette of the garment.

·        Should be used wisely and in the appropriate place in a garment . It should suit  the pattern , design and garmenting condition .

Functions of interfacing

• The purpose of interfacing is :
• To provide stability to the fabric preventing stretch and sagging .
•  Tailored and refined seams like in corsets.
•    Strengthen areas .
•  Support  restrained areas like necklines’ , armholes , hems etc.
• Stabilize belts , waistbands.
•  Give smooth and flat board like body.
• Provide shape to areas like shoulders , collars , cuffs , etc.

Selecting interfacing guidelines

Selecting interfacing at times is so difficult that many sewers prefer to use the same interfacing for all type of fabrics and all type of garments and in all the areas. Learning basic principles will help to enhance the look of the garment and give a professional edge which would eliminate guess work.

     ·  Interfacing should be considerably lighter or of similar weight as that of fashion fabric             being used . The only exception being an exaggerated effect  needs to be created or to         alter the drape and hand of the fabric.

• Pre-test of interfacing on the fabric is always advised for an amateur . Run a swatch test to check the effect . A fusible interfacing gives more body and flat board like appearance to certain extent and non fusible would only add body. In case of suitable interfacing you need not trim away the seams as it does not bulk.
• Interfacing should have the same ‘grain’ and ‘give’ as the fashion fabric and also same in weight and colour to certain extent if not similar.
• Interfacing should required the same care and storage as the fashion fabric. Interfacing will either be fused to the fashion garment or sewn with the fashion garment so both must carry same guidelines for washing or dry cleaning.
•  There might be more than one type of interfacing needed for one garment like a belt would need a heavier interfacing than a collar and same or lesser weight interfacing for other sections. The ‘right’ interfacing is the one that serves the purpose of its use.
• Consider the heat sensitivity of the fabric when using a fusible interfacing. Otherwise also the two fabrics should be compatible with respect to heat , steam and pressure for future laundering and ironing.